The Eiffel Tower at Night

How to Spend a Few Days in Paris

After visiting Normandy, my cousin and I made our way to Paris. We’ve both been many times before but Paris never gets boring.

For many years, I went to Paris regularly for work but never strayed too far from the Stock Exchange (Bourse Metro Station). These were quick two or three-day business trips that always tended to happen mid-week with no room for a weekend stay. WHY??? WHY??? I was too devoted to my job back in those days.

So it’s nice to go back as a tourist now and stay in different parts of the city and visit new museums and restaurants that I’ve never had the chance to visit before. Again that’s the great thing about Paris. Much like London, there is always something new to explore.

Room at Hotel Monge. Photo credit: Hotel Monge

I booked us into the Hotel Monge in the 6th, which was just a short walk from both Cardinal Lemoine and Place Monge metro stations. This was a GREAT little hotel that I would highly recommend if you’re doing a lot on this side of town. The
rooms were bijou perfection, the wifi was decent, and the shower was so fantastic that one day, my cousin took not one but four showers. (To be fair, it was a very cold and wet day and we were out during the worst of it so I think at least three of those showers are justified.) This is a brand new hotel that I highly recommend. Book Hotel Monge.

Our challenge though, location-wise, was that for some reason, everything we wanted to do was more centrally located or on the other side of town, so we spent a lot of time on the Paris Metro. But again, that’s the great thing about a city like Paris. Public transport is fantastic! (Although not as many escalators as London.)

Here’s what we got up to while we were in town:

Touring Around

Musee de l’Orangerie: Don’t laugh but I’d never been here before! I know. We stared at Monet’s waterlilies — the oblong room setup is honestly perfect — and had a good value breakfast at the compact cafe downstairs. With our Eurostar ticket, we also got half off admission, which was great. Of course you should go here.

The view from Foundation Louis Vuitton

Foundation Louis Vuitton: We made the mistake of 1. walking here from the metro (it’s a long walk) and 2. arriving 35 minutes before it opened and 3. arriving the day after an exhibition had closed so the building was *empty*. It was also pouring rain and freezing cold during our visit which made hanging out on the building’s terraces less appealing. (The terraces are a key selling point on a nice day!) Keep this for a warm day when the sun is out and the building is at its best and there’s an exhibition! We still loved the architecture and took a ton of photos of the building (a Gehry building) from many angles.

Sainte Chapelle in Paris is breathtakingly beautiful

Sainte Chapelle:  Another place I had never been to before! I’ve hit Notre Dame more times than I can recall, but never Sainte Chapelle and it is so stunningly beautiful I could cry. The stained glass! Never have I seen stained glass like this. Amazing. Go.

The Pantheon: I vaguely remember visiting The Pantheon when I was 19 years old but I hadn’t been back since. We were awed by Focoult’s Pendulum (telling the time correctly for years!) and spent time paying our respects to Voltaire, Louis Braille, and Marie Curie. In hindsight, it would have been nice to have gotten the audio guide here so that we knew more about the history of the edifice.

Eating 

I was a little tired of organizing everything at this point so I put my cousin in charge of food for 18 hours. He got to pick our dinner choice one night and lunch the next day. I of course wanted a reservation. He just wanted to “wing it.” “It’s Paris! everything is good here.” Sigh. Luckily, he did well on Friday night even though I was deeply, deeply worried.

Rouge Bis (Opera/Bourse): George  slid us into one of the very few remaining tables at Rouge Bis, across the street from Moulin Rouge. I was SO worried about this. Across the street from a major tourist attraction? It couldn’t possibly be good. But our tough, wisecracking server was awesome and the food was not bad. (I had the steak and chips.) Rouge Bis feels young and hip and it’s very convenient for pre-show at Moulin Rouge. Would I seek it out again? Probably not. But if I found myself in the area again and needed a meal, I would gladly eat here again.

La Creperie, Sorbonne: We popped in here after our visit to The Pantheon as it was very very convenient. It was also very very crowded and my cousin had never experienced French tables before, where they stuff you in like sardines. (Even at Rouge Bis, we had space.) It’s fair to say we were both pretty miserable here and the food was pretty average.

Le Casse Noix: When you are in Paris, you *must* use the wonderful Paris by Mouth website, where Parisian bloggers share their favorite Parisian restaurants. (We London bloggers should do the same.) Paris by Mouth directed us to the very sweet Le Casse Noix, within a 10 minute walk of the Eiffel Tower. Service was friendly and efficient, the place was packed with locals, and I had a rice pudding for dessert that was as big as my head. I probably made a mistake in ordering cod with endive — Why do I always forget that I’m not a huge endive fan? — but I would go back here again and recommend it for a nice, cozy meal close to the Eiffel Tower.

Entertainment

Moulin Rouge: Neither of us had ever done Moulin Rouge before and we were in full tourist mode. In my head, I wasimagining something fairly seedy. I was imagining tightly cramped tables and lots of boobs. And while there were certainly a lot of boobs, they were pretty classy about it. Also, while the lower tables looked a little cramped, they were certainly nowhere near as cramped as what I was imagining. In fact, the whole venue was pretty classy. I had booked us VIP tickets up in the balcony, which included VIP entry, a bottle of champagne, macarons, and some tchotchkes and a souvenier guide. Some of the signing and dancing acts were pretty terrible but the ACROBATS WERE AMAZING. Now that I’ve seen Moulin Rouge once, I don’t think I need to see it again, but this was still fun and a lot better than I expected. Book the VIP package with Champagne here.  There’s also a VIP package with four course meal.

The Verdict

I feel like I crossed a lot of things off my list this trip. Which means my next trips to Paris can be more devoted to eating, drinking, and shopping…

You Might Enjoy My Other Posts

• What to do in Bayeux Normandy
• Celliers Ruinart, Reims
• Driving from St. Malo to Caen

Paris Tours

The post How to Spend a Few Days in Paris first appeared on Passport Delicious | Solo Travel Blog | Solo Female Travel.

What to do in Bayeux, Normandy: The American Cemetery

Things to Do in Bayeux, Normandy

Guys, I love France. It’s a pretty amazing place. So beautiful! So delicious! Also — HISTORY. I could live the rest of my life very happily in France and Normandy (and Brittany) specifically. So when my cousin was arranging his European trip and said that he wanted to see the D-Day beaches and Mont Saint-Michel and wondered if I knew any things to do in Bayeux, I jumped at the chance to join him.

We took the Eurostar from Kings Cross to Paris and then went one stop on the RER to Gare St Lazare, where we boarded our train to Bayeux. It was a long day of traveling but pretty low impact — just a lot of sitting on trains. Bayeux is a very walkable city so after getting off the train in Bayeux, we hoofed it over to the Hotel Churchill, which is right on Bayeux’s main drag.

Where to Stay in Bayeux

The Hotel Churchill has an amazing location — everything worth seeing is within a 10 minute walk — and it’s affordable to boot. Plus, super, super clean. I love when I stay in a 3 star hotel and the bathroom is cleaner than many 5 star hotels I’ve stayed in. The hotel proprietor, Eric, is a lovely, lovely man as is his compatriot, Daniel. I highly recommend staying here if you find yourself in Bayeux. It’s not luxurious by any stretch of the imagination, but they do what they do well. Also, there is a nice grocery store next door if you want to stock up on snacks, wine and bottled water. (Although drinking the tap water in Bayeux is totally fine.) Check out the Hotel Churchill.

Here’s what we got up to while we were in town…

What to See in Bayeux

Pointe du Hoc on our tour of Normandy beaches. Those are bomb craters.

D-Day Beaches: The Churchill helped us book a tour of the main D-Day sights with Normandy Sightseeing Tours. Our tour guide, Rose, was *amazing* and truly the highlight of our trip. She was so very knowledgeable about the area and the history of World War II and American involvement. We visited Pointe du Hoc, Omaha Beach, and the American Cemetery. (Later on our own, we visited the Commonwealth Cemetery and the War Museum.) This was a lovely and moving day out — it’s a trip I recommend for all generations. Also, we went in early March and we seriously had the whole place to ourselves. You can see from the size of the parking lots at Pointe du Hoc and the American Cemetery that the summer crowds get quite, quite large. Check out Normandy Sightseeing Tours.

Memorial Museum of the Battle of Normandy: My cousin and I were the only guests at this museum when we visited, which was a little sad but it was also low season. The museum is packed with war equipment from the Battle of Normandy — real cars and uniforms from all sides. This is a battle that took place over just three months in 1944 but had such an impact on the outcome of the war. The museum is a little old school but still very interesting and compelling; you should definitely add it to your list of things to do in Bayeux.

Bayeux War Cemetery: The Bayeux War Cemetery houses 4,144 fallen soldiers from the British Commonwealth. I didn’t realize this at the time, but there are also a number of Germans buried here. It is the largest cemetery of Commonwealth soldiers in France. The cemetery is close to the Museum of the Battle of Normandy so you can easily visit both together.

Bayeux Tapestry: I vaguely recall the Bayeux Tapestry from history class in high school and university, but really nothing prepared me for this. It is a very very long tapestry and it’s very well-preserved and presented and tells the entire story of William the Conqueror and the Norman Invasion. Apparently, the queue to visit the Bayeux Tapestry can be heinously long in summer, but we waltzed right in in February. The audio guide is very, very good. You should go here. This is one of the top things to do in Bayeux.

Things to do in Bayeux: Visit Bayeux Cathedral

Bayeux Cathedral: Don’t hate me but if you’ve seen one church, you’ve seen them all. (OK, Sainte Chapelle in Paris is a fabulous exception.) I was done with the Bayeaux Cathedral in about five minutes. My cousin needed an hour! Good if you, uh, like churches?

Fantastic Attic Bayeux: Photo from Fantastic Attic’s Facebook Page

Fantastic Attic: If you love antiques, you MUST stop by Fantastic Attic. This is a fun antique and gift shop with a bit of a D-Day theme. It’s an especially great shop if you love airplanes. There is a plane INSIDE the shop. It is wild!! It’s a bit of a shop and a bit of a museum. Definitely worth a visit!!

Conservatoire de la Dentelle: Lace-making is a dying art but it’s kept alive here in Bayeux at the Conservatoire de la Dentelle. This small little workshop is located right next to Bayeux Cathedral, making it convenient to visit while you are in Bayeux. Drop in to see the ladies at work. English is limited but they don’t mind you watching them work and taking pictures. Given how labor intensive lace-making is, don’t expect any bargains!

Where to Eat in Bayeux

I know I should have been excited about the history but I was most excited about the food in Bayeux. I *love* a multi-course French dinner. Bayeux didn’t disappoint and the two dinners we had were of high quality with excellent service.

La Rapiere: Small, family-run bistro. He is the chef, she is front of house. The service was a fine-tuned machine…they worked together like an orchestra, delivering plates, clearing plates, topping up wine. The food was great too, but what my cousin and I still talk about is how wonderfully in sync the service was. This was our best restaurant experience of our time in France.

Chicken Supreme for two at Au Ptit Bistro in Bayeux

Au Ptit Bistrot: A more casual and modern-feeling spot than La Rapiere, but we still enjoyed excellent food. (One of these days, I will learn how to make Chicken Supreme for myself.) Service was very friendly and helpful throughout and I think I finally convinced my cousin that when in France, do not order wine on your own — always ask the server. I liked our meal here and would gladly eat here again, but first I’d try to get back into La Rapiere. Note that both restaurants are *very* popular and bookings are advised.

Chez Paulette: My cousin really wanted to go here because of the decor — very kitschy 1960s and 70s. Service was friendly and helpful — very helpful actually — but my endive tart fell way short of the mark. George was happy. I wasn’t. The place was crowded with locals during the weekend lunch hour which is a great sign, but it wasn’t my favorite.

The Saturday Market: Please please please plan your trip to Bayeux so you have a Saturday free and check out the very very lovely Saturday market which you will find at Plaice Saint Patrice. It’s like my dream and it is truly one of the most wonderful things to do in Bayeux if you are into food and CIDER and Calvados. I love a French market and this one is a treasure. The market is especially great if you are staying for a few days and need to pick up some food and snacks. (Tip: Ask the cheesemonger what you should get for the occasion. Don’t tell him/her what you want. French cheesemongers live to give suggestions!)

Day Trip: Visit Mont Saint-Michel from Bayeux

Visit Mont Saint-Michel from Bayeux

Experience the incredible beauty and background (and crowds!) of one of France’s most recognizable landmarks, Mont Saint-Michel, by taking a day trip from Bayeaux. This UNESCO-listed site is a Gothic-style Benedictine abbey that sits atop a rocky bay perch. You’ll have an expert guide who will fill you in on Mont Saint-Michel’s history and heritage. I’ve been to Mont Saint-Michel twice now and it never disappoints. This ins seriously one of the best things to do in Bayeaux. Book this tour. 

Day Trip: Cheese- and Cider-Tasting Tour from Bayeux

I mean, what’s better than cheese and cider in Normandy? Nothing, really, in my honest opinion, which makes this tour one of my personal top things to do In Bayeaux. During this absolutely lovely tour, you’ll get a chance to taste Camembert right from the farm and see how Calvados is produced. Highly recommended if you want to experience the real France.  Book the full-day tour. Book the half-day tour.

Getting to Bayeux from Paris

High-speed trains leave from Paris Saint Lazare a few times per day. The ride takes about 2.5 hours. It’s a very easy trip. Once you arrive in Bayeux, it’s about a 10 minute walk — and a pretty one too! — to the center of town from the station.

Summary of Things to Do in Bayeux

It is very easy to visit Bayeux from Paris although a day trip might be a bit tough and too much traveling. So if you’re looking for things to do in Bayeux, stay overnight, enjoy a fine meal at La Rapiere, and step into history.

You Might Enjoy My Other Posts

• Quick trip with Brittany Ferries
• Driving from St. Malo to Caen
• How to Spend a Few Days in Paris

Need More Things to Do in Bayeux?

The post Things to Do in Bayeux, France first appeared on Passport Delicious | Solo Travel Blog | Solo Female Travel.

Things to Do in Biarritz: Hang out at Port Vieux

My friends Bryan and Stacey bought a place in Biarritz ages ago — 2008? 2009? —  and I’ve been promising (threatening?) to visit ever since my first visit. This year, with a little spare time on hand before my busy season at work, I finally booked a long weekend in Biarritz. And it was one of those trips where you spend the entire visit wondering, “Why didn’t I do this sooner?” Because Biarritz is really the best of towns. It’s right on the beach and the surf is often up, so there’s a nice laid-back surfing vibe to everything. It’s a small enough town that if you dine out at the same restaurant often enough, everyone knows your name and knows your story and knows where you live or where you are staying or who you know or why you know them. In short, I love Biarritz. I think we should all move there. There are so many things to do in Biarritz! It’s amazing.

A room at the Radisson Blu Biarritz

Where to Stay in Biarritz…With a Rooftop Swimming Pool!

I got a great Hotwire deal on the Radisson Blu in Biarritz — read my post for details on how I get great deals on Hotwire — and while the hotel certainly hasn’t been updated in the last seven years — the timeframe recommended for most hotel upgrades — its location — smack bang in the middle of things and just a 7 minute walk from my friends’ place and a short walk to the beach — was perfect. It also helped that Stacey knew someone who knew the manager of the hotel, so there may have been some free drinks and snacks involved.

Rooftop Pool at the Radisson Blu Biarritz Hotel

We were also pleased with the hotel’s great rooftop pool and bar, where we spent many an hour relaxing and just doing nothing, really, except discussing how it was that we had all gotten so old. Honestly, it’s really hard to beat the Raddison’s location or rooftop pool in Biarritz so if you’re not picky about decor and don’t mind an older property, this is the place to stay for your weekend in Biarritz. The hotel overlooks the beach and it’s just a short walk to the surfers beach or into town for the cute little beach in the lead photo on this post. Book the Raddison Blu Biarritz.

If the Radisson Blu doesn’t appeal to you, here are some other hotels to consider:
● Le Saphir: This is one of the cheaper hotels in Biarritz but in high season, it will won’t be cheap-cheap. This hotel has a great location close to the waterfront.  Rooms are a bit basic but they are clean and the owners are very friendly.
● La Maison du Lierre: This is a small boutique hotel conveniently located to main shopping street in Biarritz. I love the decor and the convenience to restaurants and bars.
● Sofitel Le Miramar– If you’re looking to splurge, the Sofitel Le Miramar is a great option. It’s conveniently located on the beach and it has a lovely bar and restaurant with views over the ocean. If I had the millions I deserved, I’d stay here.

Things to Do in Biarritz

Things to do in Biarritz: Catch the sunset from the rooftop bar at the Radisson Blu

Watch the Sunset from the Rooftop Bar of the Radisson Blu

Watching the sunset from the rooftop bar of the Radisson Blu is one of the best things to do in Biarritz, in my opinion. Grab a glass of rose or an Aperol Spritz and chill out. If you’re lucky, there will be some live music. Maybe some free snacks. Amazing.

Watch the Sunset from Extola Bibi

Along Avenue Beaue Rivage, right next to the parking lot (south), there’s a small park with a bar set in the middle called Extola Bibi. This is a great little outdoor bar to hang out at and watch the sunset. It’s very popular with the local crowd. People of all ages. If you’re down on the beach during the day, it’s really wonderful to come up to street level and grab a drink before you head out for dinner. It’s one of the more local things to do in Biarritz. It’s even great for kids because there’s plenty of outdoor space for them to run around.

Visit Mercado les Halles

The Mercado les Halles is one of the top things to do in Biarritz. It’s a fantastic food market with all sorts of local Basque products. The market is open every day during the year from 7:30 am to 2 pm but during the the high season in July and August, it’s also open in the evening and is a popular gathering spot.

Hang Out on the Plage du Port Vieux

The lead photo on my post is of the lovely Plage du Port Vieux, which is a fun beach that is easily swimmable and surfer-free. It can get really crowded, but honestly, I love it here. One tip: if you are planning on spending some time on the beaches in Biarritz, buy some Turkish towels. They are very light and easy to carry. I suggest this because on your way back from the beach, you may want to stop for a drink somewhere and these are much more portable than heavy beach towels. (They also take less water to wash and dry faster so they are better for the environment.)

Catch a Pelote/Jai Alai Match

Jai Alai is very popular in the Basque region and there will probably be a few matches on while you’re in town. At Parc Mazon in town, there’s a court where locals will also play in the evening. Catching a game is one of the really fun things to do in Biarritz that helps you feel like a local.

Go to Surf School

One of my goals in life is to learn how to surf!! And in Biarritz, there are a number of surf schools to choose from. Take a 2-hour personal surf lesson or if you’re not ready to commit just yet, try a 1-hour surf lesson. If you’re already an experienced surfer, you can do a surf tour of Biarritz and the surrounding areas!

Things to do in Biarritz: Visit the Jellyfish at the Biarritz Aquarium

Visit the Biarritz Aquarium

The Biarritz Aquarium is compact but still pretty enjoyable, for adults and kids alike! Seals are always fun to watch!! And the jellyfish are mesmerizing.

Walk from Rocher de la Vierge to the Lighthouse (Or Vice Versa)

One of the most relaxing things to do in Biarritz no matter what time of year is take a nice long walk along the waterfront. You can either start at the lighthouse and walk towards the Rocher de la Vierge (the statue of the Virgin Mary on the rock, accessible by a small bridge), or head in the opposite direction. This is a nice, manageable 1.5 mile walk. Especially nice at sunset!

Treat Yourself to a Massage at Hotel du Palais

If you are looking for a great spa in Biarritz, check out the Hotel du Palais. My friend Stacey and I did a spa day where we first relaxed in the lovely hotel pool and had massages and facials before enjoying a lovely lunch overlooking the ocean. Life doesn’t get much better than this, so if you’re looking for a spa or need a massage in Biarritz, look no further.

Maison Dezamy Biarritz: Photo: Maison Dezamy

Have Ice Cream at Maison Dezamy

One of the easiest and sweetest things to do in Biarritz is stop in at Maison Dezamy alone Rue de les Halles for some of their fantastic ice cream! Great on a warm summer evening!

Buy Espadrilles!

There is no better way to fit in with the locals than buying a pair of espadrilles in Biarritz. (Red ones are especially popular, particularly in late July, around Fetes de Bayonne.) Two of my favorite places to buy espadrilles in Biarritz are the Art of Soule on Rue Gambetta and La Maison de l’Espadrille on Rue du Port Vieux.

Where to Eat in Biarritz

Going out to eat, of course, is one of the best things to do in Biarritz. I love Basque cuisine! It’s very French but, er, very Spanish at the same time. (Although I probably shouldn’t say “Spanish.”)

Caroe: I love this small Danish restaurant on Rue Gambetta Biarritz. Lots of great seafood dishes here. It can get quite crammed and is not a large place so plan ahead. Some interesting Scandi beers on the menu too.

Cibo Pizza: Right next to Caroe, you’ll find Cibo Pizza. Because sometimes, even in France, you need a good pizza. Reservations recommended! We’ve been locked out before!

Haragia: Tiny little place just off Rue Gambetta in Biarritz that serves mainly steak and chips. We perched on high chairs and devoured a number of plates of very good steak. VERY popular so make a booking. I liked it here a lot, although service was both very harried and very slow. We ordered a second bottle of wine and we were nearly done with our food by the time it arrived.

The Beach House: This was about a 15 minute ride (I think) outside Biarritz, but we loved the relaxed vibe and international cuisine. (I love Basque food as much as the next person, but after a few days of it, you start salivating over anything Asian.) We had a table on the outdoor patio, but luckily we were under a canopy because it proceeded to rain like nobody’s business while we were sitting there. While we enjoyed our time here, The Beach House felt like a “beautiful people” kinda place, just fyi.

Bar du Marche: We wandered around Biarritz’s lively central market before settling down here for a big plate of garlicky chiporones. This was a very lively, fun spot and we were lucky to get a table. The restaurant was so crowded that we could barely get to the bar for tapas, which was our original plan.

L’ Artnoa: Fantastic, friendly winebar that has recently been refurbed. I stopped in here to pick up a gift for my friends and service was super sweet and helpful. Snacks and a small menu available.

Cafe du Commerce: Great for nearly all day dining — they take a small break between lunch and dinner — with something on the menu for everyone. This friendly cafe is located right by the market.

Day Trips from Biarritz

Bayonne is about a 45 minute ride on the bus from Biarritz. The buses are very easy and well-labeled. I’ve taken the bus twice now from Biarritz to Bayonne for Fetes de Bayonne and it’s a crazy good time. (Sorta like Oktoberfest but more of a street party.) Even if your dates don’t overlap with Fetes de Bayonne, Bayonne seems like a nice town for a day trip from Biarritz.

San Sebastian is about a 45 minute to one  hour drive from Biarritz. I hope you have heard of San Sebastian before, but if not, it’s all tapas bars all the time. A great thing to do is tapas crawl your way through town. I’ve lost track of how many times I’ve been to San Sebastian and it truly never gets boring.

Summary of the Best Things to Do in Biarritz

After spending a week in Biarritz for the first time in like eight years, I have decided that I must make this an annual pilgrimage. It’s a great little town for a long weekend! Put it on your list.

You Might Enjoy These Other Posts

• How to Spend a Few Days in Paris
• Traveling from St. Malo to Caen
• How to Spend a Few Days in Normandy

Looking for More Things to Do in Biarritz?

The post The Best Things to Do in Biarritz, France first appeared on Passport Delicious | Solo Travel Blog | Solo Female Travel.

The start of our trip fom St. Malo to Caen

The Drive from St. Malo to Caen

When I wrote about my September trip to Normandy & Brittany a few weeks back, I didn’t really talk much about where we went once we got there! In case you too are interested in a quick weekend trip, here’s a summary of everything we accomplished in 36 hours on our drive from St. Malo to Caen. (We took the car on the ferry from Portsmoth, which helped.) It’s a beautiful part of the world that I highly recommend visiting. Enjoy!

St. Malo: The photo above is of St. Malo, a gorgeous little medieval town. I wish was had had more time here because it was early when we arrived and most shops and restaurants were closed. Lovely just to walk around. I would gladly go back here. Definitely walk along the ramparts in St. Malo.

Dinard: A lovely and relaxing stop on our drive from St. Malo to Caen

Dinard: This is a great stop on your drive from St. Malo to Caen or Caen to St. Malo. It’s a great beach town and a market town too. Excellent people watching. While we didn’t find much at the market that struck our fancy — we were really hoping for an oyster bar or something — I can see how this town might be an appealing destination in summer. It seemed very Edith Wharton-y. The beach is worth a return visit.

Cancale: The surprising highlight of our trip from St. Malo to Caen

Cancale: This was definitely a highlight of our trip. Sure, it’s a little touristy — oyster restaurants are chock-a-block up and down the main drag — but as someone who loves oysters, this was nirvana. We somehow decided to park up above town and walk down a little woodland path, putting us on the opposite end of town from all the oyster restaurants. Not to fear though, we had a lovely lunch at Cote Mer and walked it off on our way down the beach to see the rest of town. Would gladly go back to Cancale and Cote Mer next time we make the drive from St. Malo to Caen or Caen to St. Malo.

Mont Ste Michelle is absolutely stunning.

Mont Ste Michel: Definitely beautiful, but rammed with people and we got there too late in the day. The monastery closes at 5 pm! I suppose it’s a must see but there were just too many people for me. A lot of people ask about the steps and it honestly wasn’t too bad but if you like me are still recovering from a bad ankle sprain, it’s a little troublesome. (Note: I’ve since returned to Mont Ste Michel…in the rain. You can’t win!) If I return at 3rd time, I would try to stay overnight to see the tides come in and out and explore Mont Ste Michel before (or after) the tourists descend.

Honfleur was where we overnighted on our drive from St. Malo to Caen.

Honfleur: We loved this little ocean-faring town. Lots of boats, lots of medieval architecture. A little touristy but enjoyable just the same.

• Where we slept: Motel Les Bleuets. Clean, quiet, free bikes and a good breakfast. If you need a place to stay on the drive from St. Malo to Caen or Caen to St. Malo, definitely consider this place.
• Where we ate: Au Relais Des Cyclistes. Very very popular with the tourist crowd. A little too heaving for me but many people will like its liveliness.

Drink all the Calvados in Pont-l’Évêque

Pont-l’Évêque: The next morning, it was time to continue our drive from St. Malo to Caen. Sunday was rainy and dreary so we headed for the Pere Magloire Calvados Distillery. The tour was all in French, but we somehow managed to understand most of it and our tour guide was good at translating for us here and there. Definitely call in advance to ask about English tours. Very generous and inexpensive tasting at the end of the tour. Note that it looks like Pere Magloire is now closed so try Calvados Christian Drouin instead. In short, when you are in this part of France, drink all the Calvados!

Caen: This is a port city so it’s not a destination really but we pulled into town and headed straight for the Normandie Wine Warehouse and loaded up the car with cases upon cases of wine. We then stopped for a surprisingly tasty lunch at the relatively non-descript Brasserie la Phare before queuing up for the ferry. Damn, I want to be able to cook like a French person. One thing we learned about France on a Sunday…it is VERY hard to get a table for lunch. Most places are totally booked up. Definitely plan in advance. We had pretty much given up before the woman at Normandie Wine Warehouse recommended Brasserie la Phare and although it didn’t look like much from the outside, it was great.

I honestly cannot wait to go back to this part of the world. I highly recommend it for a weekend jaunt! Driving from St. Malo to Caen or Caen to St. Malo is a wonderful way to spend a few days.

Considering a Drive from St. Malo to Caen or Caen to St. Malo? You Might Enjoy These Other Posts

• Quick Trip to Normandy with Brittany Ferries
• What to Do in Bayeux

Book a Tour of Normandy and Brittany

The post The Beautiful Drive from St. Malo to Caen first appeared on Passport Delicious | Solo Travel Blog | Solo Female Travel.

Brittany Ferries to St. Malo: Champagne & a Posh Dinner

Brittany Ferries to St. Malo

A few months ago, one of my former colleagues said something like, “Hey, we’re thinking of taking Brittany Ferries to St. Malo, France for the weekend. We’re taking the car. Do you want to come along?”

I am the worst person to say these things to.

Because I always say yes.

And before you know it, I’m off to Portsmouth with my friends Andre and Christa and we’re driving their car onto the quite large and substantial ferry. If you like logistics and operations like I do, this is pretty damn amazing. ALL THESE CARS. Squeezed onto this one ferry. Off to France! Across the sea. Amazing.

Brittany Ferries Cabin Review

For our Brittany ferries to St. Malo adventure, we booked cabins and I had a spacious four-berth room to myself. It was tiny and pink and clean and neat. Not luxurious at all, and I slept like crap down in the bowels of the ship, but it was not bad, all in all. (I really cannot imagine sharing this room with three other people though, unless they were my children and even then, it would be hard.)

The Posh Restaurant Onboard

Dinner on board Brittany Ferries to St Malo

As soon as we got onto the ship, Andre hustled us to the posh restaurant and procured a corner table. (Apparently this is the thing to do if you wan the early seating the posh restaurant…run to the restaurant as soon as you board. I don’t even think we dropped our bags off??) I am laughing as I’m writing this because guys, it was a real restaurant, with real food! Quelle surprise! The service was very French and very lovely. I had the poached sole and we drank Champagne out of tiny bottles and capped our night with some Muscat and the dessert bar, where we may have eaten all the Tiramasu and all the cheese. Lactose intolerant, we are not.

Arriving in St. Malo

After arriving on Brittany Ferries to St Malo

Bright and early the next morning, we arrived in the medieval city of St. Malo. They have ramparts there. For the next 36 hours, we drove around Brittany and Normandy and drank all the wine and ate all the oysters. A perfect weekend, really. I really can’t recommend Brittany Ferries to St. Malo enough. Well done, Brittany Ferries. Well done.

Check Out My Other Posts about France

• Driving from St. Malo to Caen
• How to Spend a Few Days in Paris
• Things to Do in Bayeux, France

Book a Brittany or Normandy Tour

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Hotel Les Dames du Pantheon Review

This is a bit of a lost post but 2014 is drawing to a close — what a crazy year, my friends — and I have some free time on my hands for the first time since my 30 days of blissful unemployment in June and July. (Oh but to have those 30 days back!) I was in Paris back in August, my first time back in four or five years. My friends Karen and Bob were in town so I hopped on the Eurostar and met them for a lovely weekend of wandering and wine. They had rented a flat in Paris and the original plan was for me to stay with them at the flat. But the flat had a cat. And cats and Krista don’t get along. So Hotel Les Dames du Pantheon it was.

And I had made a nice choice in my hotel selection. My room had pretty views over the Pantheon and was a leisurely stroll from a few different metro stations. (Truth be told though, after a long day of walking on Day 1, I kinda wished the stroll back to the hotel from the metro wasn’t so leisurely.) The room was spotlessly clean and also gorgeously, decadently decorated. Each floor in Hotel Les Dames du Pantheon is decorated after a famous French woman. My room was a Juliette Greco room. Greco, a singer, was also a member of the Resistance. A bohemian freedom fighter. Love it.

When I arrived at the hotel, it was fairly late at night. So I was tired and disorganized when I made this video. It might make you dizzy. But it should give you a feel for the place just the same, and if you don’t mind a leisurely stroll or three, you’ll like it here very much.

The Verdict: Recommended. But bring your walking shoes.

You Might Enjoy My Other Posts

• How to Spend a Few Days in Paris
• Archive of All My Paris Posts

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I did not envy my French colleague Denis who had to feed 65 people every night. This, apparently, is not very easy in Paris. Unlike London, where every restaurant is prepared to sell its soul to the evil that is corporate (insert country here), Paris just doesn’t do big groups. Or so I’ve been told. (If you’ve ever had dinner for 65 in Paris, please tell me where and if it was any good. We can always use more tips.)

All that being said, Denis booked us into two very interesting venues and while the food might not have been that sort of “I want to move to France and enroll in cooking school like YESTERDAY” type of experience, it was still pretty French. Which means, in my mind, pretty good.

Le Saut du Loup
107, Rue de Rivoli
Paris, France 75001

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Créperie Le Connétable
1, Rue Apport
F-22100 Dinan

Date of Last Visit: Friday, August 28, 2009

The Victims: Gerry, Ben, Sarah

The Damage: 20 euros. If that.

The Background: I’ve spent a lot of time today, trying to make sure my luggage weighs less than 10 kilos. Because you know, I’m flying Ryanair and carrying-on. So unless I want to pay a gazillion dollars (pounds…euros…whatever), I need to clock in at less than 10 something or others.

I am impressed with my own packing skills and manage to tip the scales at 8.5 kilos. Subtract the September issue of Vogue on the way back, and I’m at 8.25 kilos. I, in short, am awesome.

Crepes are a good reward. A very good reward. If I had the millions I deserved, I would hire someone to do nothing but make me crepes. They are, after all, a very versatile food. You can have crepes for breakfast. Or for lunch. Or for dinner. You can have sweet crepes. Savoury crepes. Crepes with nothing but butter. Crepes with Nutella. Crepes with banana. Crepes with ham. Yes, crepes. I like crepes.

The Entrance: It’s never good to go to a restaurant you can’t pronounce. I need to remember this for later. But it’s so cute inside that I can’t imagine that the food will be anything less than good.

The Cider: Brittany likes cider. I had no idea. When I think of Cider, I think Magners. But here’s what I’ve learned: There’s a lot of cider in Brittany. A LOT. And no one outside of France drinks it. So get yourself hip to the trend and get into Bretagne Cider now and you will be totally already into something very great later. We are hooked.

The Food: I get a ham and cheese and egg crepe. It’s like supermarket-Schinken. (Sorry, I’m writing this from Germany.) I am not impressed. The crepe is tasteless. Everything is tasteless. Honestly, a little salt and butter would have gone a long way. I am sad. no amount of cuteness can make up for this.

For dessert, I get an apple and vanilla ice cream crepe and this is much better. Between the cuteness and the ice cream crepe, Créperie Le Connétable is almost redeemed. Almost. But not quite.

The Verdict: Go for the cuteness. Not the food.

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Créperie Le Connétable
1, Rue Apport
F-22100 Dinan

Date of Last Visit: Friday, August 28, 2009

The Victims: Gerry, Ben, Sarah

The Damage: 20 euros. If that.

The Background: I’ve spent a lot of time today, trying to make sure my luggage weighs less than 10 kilos. Because you know, I’m flying Ryanair and carrying-on. So unless I want to pay a gazillion dollars (pounds…euros…whatever), I need to clock in at less than 10 something or others.

I am impressed with my own packing skills and manage to tip the scales at 8.5 kilos. Subtract the September issue of Vogue on the way back, and I’m at 8.25 kilos. I, in short, am awesome.

Crepes are a good reward. A very good reward. If I had the millions I deserved, I would hire someone to do nothing but make me crepes. They are, after all, a very versatile food. You can have crepes for breakfast. Or for lunch. Or for dinner. You can have sweet crepes. Savoury crepes. Crepes with nothing but butter. Crepes with Nutella. Crepes with banana. Crepes with ham. Yes, crepes. I like crepes.

The Entrance: It’s never good to go to a restaurant you can’t pronounce. I need to remember this for later. But it’s so cute inside that I can’t imagine that the food will be anything less than good.

The Cider: Brittany likes cider. I had no idea. When I think of Cider, I think Magners. But here’s what I’ve learned: There’s a lot of cider in Brittany. A LOT. And no one outside of France drinks it. So get yourself hip to the trend and get into Bretagne Cider now and you will be totally already into something very great later. We are hooked.

The Food: I get a ham and cheese and egg crepe. It’s like supermarket-Schinken. (Sorry, I’m writing this from Germany.) I am not impressed. The crepe is tasteless. Everything is tasteless. Honestly, a little salt and butter would have gone a long way. I am sad. no amount of cuteness can make up for this.

For dessert, I get an apple and vanilla ice cream crepe and this is much better. Between the cuteness and the ice cream crepe, Créperie Le Connétable is almost redeemed. Almost. But not quite.

The Verdict: Go for the cuteness. Not the food.

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L'Ardoise
28 rue du Mont-Thabor
75001 PARIS

Date of Last Visit: Thursday, June 4, 2009

The Victims: Too many to mention.

The Damage: Unknown! Our CFO paid.

The Background: I was excited, of course, to go to Paris for work. But the fact that Craig and his wife Leann would be there at the same time made me look forward to the trip even more. I know I can always count on them for organizing a great evening.

Craig told me about a little restaurant he had been to the night before and how much he and Leann had liked it. So based on his rave reviews, we booked a return trip–this time, for nine people.

The Entrance: We enter and are shown our own private dining room. How great is this? (The only bad part is that our private dining room is on the way to the toilets.) We make ourselves comfortable and proceed to rearrange all the tables.

Ummm…Only to find out that this is not our table. We don't have a private dining room. We've got a table upstairs in the corner. Whoops. Luckily not our fault.

The Ordering: I steer clear of my co-worker from yesterday's lunch at Georgette this time around. Luckily, there are no paper menus, just a large blackboard. There are also no little toothpicks around, so I can't poke anybody's eyes out.

I do agree to share the cuissot de chevreau roti with the same co-worker, however. (And although I don't know what cuissot means–my French colleagues tell me "shin"; Google Translate says "leg"–I do know that chevreau means goat.) I also take our server's suggestion of the prawn starter, which isn't  even listed on the blackboard.

The Starters: We're brought a couple of boards of saucison. Great stuff. And then my prawns arrive, and I haven't stopped thinking about them since. They're served individually, each prawn in its own little pot of red wine, with a great buttery garlicky crouton on top. It was all I could do NOT to drink the remaining red wine in all the pots. Oh to be dining alone! (I did, however, help myself to some bread to sop it all up.)

The Mains: After a while, my colleagues insisted that I stop calling my main "baby goat." But the problem is, that's how my French colleagues first described to me. As I reviewed the menu, I said, "Well, that says goat" and they said, "Well, it more like baby goat. And what's that part of the leg? The lower part? Shin! Shin, yes. It's "baby goat shin." (Kinda like "baby fish mouth"? If you know what I'm talking about.) Well, the goat, baby or not, was delicious.

The Dessert: I'm not normally a huge crème brûlée fan, but again, I went with our server's recommendation. This was billed as a raspberry crème brûlée, which I figured was because of the raspberry sorbet on top. How wrong I was! This was full of plump raspberries. Fantastic.

The Verdict: This was a very happy meal. I left very happy. I would gladly go back here, and I would gladly recommend L'Ardoise to friends. And strangers.

P.S. Should I warn you that you're going to have to put up with a few non-London restaurant reviews in the coming days? Paris first, Madrid next! But I will try to mix up the reviews in between.

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Date of Last Visit: Thursday, June 4, 2009

The Victim: Colleague from Paris office

The Damage: Unknown, he paid.

The Background: Every so often, I learn something new about myself. In hindsight, many of these new things are maybe not surprising. But for me, at the time, they’re revelations.

So it was when my co-worker took me out to lunch in Paris. He took me to the little cafe, Georgette, in the 9th. He had heard good things from his co-workers. And I’d generally agree with those good things. But…

The Entrance: Georgette is sunny and open and colorful. It seems to be run by women and a quick look at Zagats confirms that. We grab a seat and a server promptly arrives at our table. She speaks to both of us, but as I can only ask for the check in French, I have no idea what she’s saying.

My colleague looks at me and looks at the menu (he’s holding two: mine, his) and then he looks back at me. He says, “Do you like prawns?” I say “Well, yes, prawns are okay.” (Knowing in the back of my mind that this is France and they will be prawns served still in their shells, which I just am not good with.)

He hands the menus back to the server and it’s done.

It’s done.

He’s ordered my food for me. I haven’t even had a chance to look at the menu. (And while I can’t speak French, I know enough food nouns to be dangerous.) And really, he hasn’t looked at the menu either!

I am seething.

Seething! I don’t even know what I’m having. I have no idea what just transpired. How did this happen?

I ask my colleague if the prawns are going to be served in their shells, and he says, “Maybe. Probably.” And I watch plate after plate come out of the kitchen and indeed, the prawns are served in their shells.

I wouldn’t describe myself as a person who gets angry–tense, yes, angry no. But the wave of anger I felt rushing over me as I thought of all the delicious things on that menu that I would never get to try…arrggghhh. I wanted to poke somebody’s eyes out with the toothpicks that came with our tiny little olives.

The Food: “It” arrives. And it’s fine. The shells on the prawns have already been prepared so they can be removed easily. It’s a fresh summery dish. But honestly, I can’t concentrate on it because I seriously WANT TO SEE THE MENU.

The Verdict: Georgette was nice. But warning: unless it’s Chinese or tapas, don’t order my food for me. Or I’ll poke your eyes out.

P.S. I know this is a terrible “restaurant review.” I also know that I am a terrible person. Sorry.

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