Somewhere on the Yangtze River

I just wrapped up an amazing four weeks in China and you know what…I easily could have stayed longer. (Um but it’s probably a good idea that I left because keep reading.) I *really” loved China, although to be 100% honest, I really *hated* the Internet situation. (The Great Firewall blocks access to all Google products, Facebook, Instagram, and if you can believe it — SLACK.)

The post I wrote about the cost of my four weeks in Thailand was surprisingly popular so I thought I would summarize the cost of my time in China too. If you missed that Thailand post, here’s the gist: I don’t think people on the Internet in the “lifestyle” space are as transparent about money as they could (should?) be. Everyone’s all “Look at my amazing vacation in the Maldives. You need to visit here! Oh but you’ll need $10,500 for one week.” (Or worse, “Look at my amazing vacation in the Maldives. That I got for free because I’m an “influencer.”)

(Chris Pople and Andy Hayler, who both write about restaurants, are exceptions. They nearly always post the cost of their meals, which I appreciate.)

So partly out of my own curiosity — we are all bad at mental arithmetic — and partly in a way to show what travel costs, I’ve decided to tally up my expenses at the end of each trip. Remember: I have no fixed abode right now so I what I spend on hotels and meals while traveling is essentially my cost of living. (Plus health insurance and my mobile phone plan.) Remember I am not a backpacker but nor am I an uber-luxury traveler. I spend enough to be comfortable and feel safe with a few splurges here and there.

In my Thailand post, I explained that I stayed in 90% three star properties and 10% four- and five-star properties. For China, I stayed in 15% five-star (my Yangtze River Cruise), 75% four-star, and 10% three-star properties. I leaned more towards four-star in China mainly because I knew that English would not be as widely spoken in China as it is in Thailand — Thailand’s tourism industry is much more well-developed — and I was more likely to find English at 4-star hotels. (Presumption: They pay better and part of paying better is that a certain level of English is required.) Could I have survived in 3-star hotels? Most certainly. But in traveling solo, I am my only translator so mostly 4 star it was. Ah and one thing I keep forgetting to mention…I need to work from the road, a lot of times at odd hours. So I’ve learned I’m miserable without silence, a proper desk, and good internet infrastructure. And I’m not young! So hostels and basic-basicness are out. (I’m starting to figure out that a lot of 3-stars don’t come with desks.)

Cost of My Four Weeks in China

OK, here we go…

Picture from Hotel Website

Shanghai: I spent 14 nights at the Fraser Modena Putuo, an apartment hotel right across the street from the Langao Road subway station. I had to get to and from Chinese class every day, so I specifically looked for hotels that were just a few stops away from The Hutong School in Shanghai off of Changshu Road. The Modena Putuo worked out great. I had a little loft apartment, a cheap laundry room (SCORE), and a great gym. I probably didn’t get as much out of the living room or kitchen in the apartment as I expected but I loved my big desk with a view out over Shanghai. The total cost of my stay, including 14 nights, a few breakfasts, and access to the laundry room came to $1048.33 or $74.88 per night. I thought this was an absolutely fantastic value for two weeks in Shanghai, a very expensive city, and the amenities involved. This would be a particularly good choice for two people sharing.

Picture via Hotel Soul’s Website

Suzhou: I then spent three nights in Suzhou, a “small” city outside of Shanghai (population 10 million) known for its beautiful gardens. My original plan was to visit as many water villages as possible — small towns on canals in the surrounding area — but in the end, I only got to one, Tongli. It was lovely! I’ll have to go back to Shanghai and Suzhou to visit more of these little towns. While in Suzhou, I stayed at the three-star Hotel Soul. I did not like it. At all. The hotel was very dark and my hotel room felt dirty. The service was hit and mess as well; I decided not to deal with one specific staff member after a few negative interactions. Reflecting on my stay here, I quickly changed my hotel booking in Chengdu, which was originally for a three-star hotel, and upgraded to four-star. The cost of my three nights at Hotel Soul plus a few meals was $209.34 or $69.78 per night. In comparison to the value I got in Shanghai at the Modena Putuo, this just wasn’t a great pick. (Although breakfast was included which was nice. And they did pack me breakfast for my early and long train ride and pick me up at the train station for free.)

My Cabin on the Century Legend

Yangtze River Cruise on Century Legend: From Suzhou, I took an eight-hour train ride to Yichang (and stopped a robbery…more about that in a later post) and boarded a cruise ship for four nights for a cruise along the Yangtze River. The cruise was FANTASTIC and I cannot recommend The Century Legend enough. (I hope to write a separate post about the experience shortly.) You don’t want to be miserable when you are on a boat by yourself so I definitely spent a bit of money here. The cost of my cruise was $1036 which included all my meals. I then spent an additional $177.16 on tours, laundry, a manicure and pedicure, and a few glasses of wine. So that’s a budget-busting $303.29 per night. I have no regrets. This was awesome. (Watch this video about the Three Gorges Ship Lift! Experiencing this was my favorite part of the cruise.)

Glenview ITC Plaza Chongqing

Chongqing: “Why Chongqing?” you ask? WHY NOT?? Chongqing has spicy food AND panda bears. What is not to like? I called this a vacation from my vacation and did very little while in Chongqing, where I stayed at the Glenview ITC Plaza Hotel, which I liked a lot. I walked around town a bit, went to the gym, and used the fastest Internet I came across during my entire time in China (an amazing 80 Mbps). Amazing breakfast included. (With Chongqing noodles!) Total cost of stay plus two dinners (don’t judge): $230.17 or $115.08 per night.

Fraser Suites Chengdu

Chengdu: In Chengdu, I spent three nights at the Fraser Suites Chengdu and LOVED IT. I had my own washing machine! And the hotel gym was great. In hindsight, I wish I had spent at least one more night in Chengdu. I liked the laid-back vibe, and I never got to the Panda Base or the Giant Buddha. Total cost of my stay with breakfast on two mornings: $413.35 or $137.78 per night. (Remember that after my Suzhou hotel experience, I decided to upgrade my Chengdu experience.)

Eastern House Hotel Xi’An

Xian: In Xian, I spent two nights at the Eastern House Hotel, conveniently located just south of the Drum Tower and the Muslim Quarter. In hindsight, I would have spent one or two more nights in Xian.  I LOVED this hotel; it was the most modern and stylish hotel of my stay in China. Free minibar! Free afternoon tea! Amazing. (Although I was glad I knew some Chinese at this point because their English wasn’t the greatest.) This came to $161 or $80.50 per night, including a glass of wine and breakfast one morning.

Spending Money: During my time in China, I blew through an incredible $1980.77 in cash. Before you totally freak out, Judgy McJudgersons — trust me, I’m freaking out enough as it is — please note that includes getting my hair cut and colored in Shanghai (~$250); all my train and subway tickets (about $300 total); food tours in Shanghai, Chengdu, and Xian (about $400); city tours and drivers in Yichang, Chongqing, and Xian (about $300); meals that I ate out; taxis and airport transfers; and random stuff like shampoo, Vitamin C, and cold medicine and a lot of small stuff that I am probably forgetting. (Plus ATM fees. Yikes.) This comes out to $70.74 a day. Tours are expensive…if I had dropped the tours, I would have spent less. I also opted for first class trains which were slightly (but not ridiculously) more expensive than standard trains.

Flight to China: I flew Spring Airlines to Shanghai from Krabi. Although Spring Airlines is a budget airline, I flew on one of the worst days to travel to China — October 6th, the day before China’s National Day. My flight was packed! And it was not cheap. It was $509.10. I could have flown a connecting flight for much cheaper, but it also would have taken hours longer and I think I’ve mentioned my dislike of false economies before. Unfortunately, I did not realize my trip collided with China’s National Day until it was too late.

Chinese School: I took two weeks of Mandarin classes at the Hutong School — three to four hours of Chinese per day! My two weeks cost $775.

Total Cost of My Four Weeks in China

A hugely disappointingly high $6547.22 or $233.83 per day. (My mental math going into this “trip” (lifestyle?) was an assumption that I would spend about $5000 a month on average.) Subtract the Chinese classes and we’re talking $206.15 per day. That being said, I had an AMAZING time in China and except for the Hotel Soul part in Suzhou, the time I got off the bus in the middle of nowhere, and an unfortunate incident on my Yangtze River Cruise, I would do it all over in a heartbeat. I only wish I had stayed longer!!! But I don’t think I could have afforded it.

In all of this, remember I have no fixed abode and am traveling solo and need to feel safe. To repeat my caveat last time: This is all very honest. Maybe I’m being too honest, but transparency is not a bad thing. Everyone has a different travel style and budget and different people make different compromises.

Because I knew China wouldn’t be cheap, I flew to Vietnam immediately afterwards and am staying at what I think are mostly three-star properties for the next four weeks.  (I booked some of them so long ago to take advantage of discounts that I am honestly not sure what I booked anymore.) As an example, my first hotel in Vietnam is $300 USD for an ENTIRE week. I’m also working a lot so there will be less touring around. More to come.

Running Average

Month 1: Thailand: $4760.69

Month 2: China: $6547.22

Monthly Average-to-Date: $5653.96

You Might Also Enjoy

• My Long-Term Travel Packing List
• Essential Shanghai Apps & Advice
• Where to Stay in Shanghai: The Best Hotels & Neighborhoods
• Cost of My Four Weeks in Thailand
• Don’t be Scared to Travel Alone
• Traveling Solo over 40

The post Cost of My Four Weeks in China first appeared on Passport Delicious | Solo Travel Blog | Solo Female Travel.

Old Shanghai is Nice BUT…Not the Best Place to Stay in Shanghai!

I just finished up an amazing month in China and loved my latest visit to Shanghai and this incredible city of 24 million people. I really can’t get enough. The skyline! The food! The metro! (The metro is so clean and neat and the signage is very easy to understand.)  And the dumplings. I really can’t get enough of the dumplings.

To have enough energy for all that dumpling-eating in Shanghai, you’re going to need a good night’s rest every night. In an effort to help you get the rest you deserve, during my stay, I raced all around the city trying to determine the best place to stay in Shanghai…the best neighborhoods and the best hotels, closest to pubic transportation and lots of amenities.

How to Pick the Best Place to Stay in Shanghai: Location, Location, Location

Shanghai is MASSIVE. When deciding where to stay in Shanghai, you need to pick a hotel by a metro station. Like on top of one if possible (there are a lot of skyscrapers in Shanghai so this is not uncommon) or within a 5 minute walk of one. (Preferably less, honestly because crossing the street can be difficult at times — there aren’t always crosswalks or pedestrian signals — and motorbikes don’t seem to obey traffic laws.) This sort of location gives you access to all sorts of amenities…usually a drug store, a 7-11 or FamilyMart, and lots of great eateries. Focusing on metro-friendly hotels automatically rules out any hotel on The Bund by the way! (Keep reading til the end for all of my thoughts on The Bund and why you shouldn’t stay there.) Booking.com is great for selecting hotels that fit my subway location criteria because hotel descriptions will tell you exactly how far it is to the nearest metro station. Pay careful attention to this information. Here is the description for The Langham — coincidentally my top pick for where to stay in Shanghai — from Booking.com. Note the sentence I highlighted, which explains how close The Langham is to Shanghai’s South Huangpi Road Subway Station.

Pay attention to how far your Shanghai hotel is from a metro station.

Always Check Internet Speeds!

Besides for location, in my opinion, the other thing to consider when deciding where to stay in Shanghai is internet speed. In general, internet speeds in China will be slower than what you are used to if you are from a major 1st world city. You will also be behind the Great Firewall — China blocks Facebook, Instagram, all Google products, and many newspapers like the New York Times — and if you use a VPN to access these websites — I recommend Express VPN — it will slow your speed even further. So…use the Booking.com wifi rating to evaluate hotel wifi speed as you are considering where to stay in Shanghai.  To get to this information, click Guest Reviews on a hotel’s main page on Booking.com to see the rating breakdowns as per the below screenshot of again my personal pick for the best place to stay in Shanghai, The Langham.

Carefully review the wifi ratings of hotels in Shanghai as it’s always going to be less than ideal.

Make Sure Your Shanghai Hotel Has A Concierge

My last recommendation in looking for the best place to stay in Shanghai is to consider the presence and/or quality of concierge. While there are many young people in Shanghai who speak English well today, they don’t all work in hotels. If you don’t speak Chinese, it can be helpful to have a concierge who can arrange tours for you, book restaurants, and translate when needed. Even if you don’t use the concierge directly, make sure you collect a card from your hotel with the hotel address in Chinese. This can be invaluable for taxis and when you are lost. Remember, Google is blocked in China so Google Maps will not work! And even if you use a VPN for Google Maps, I found out the hard way that Google Maps is woefully out of date.  You will need to rely on Apple Maps. (More on my app tips for Shanghai here.)

The Ultimate Best Place to Stay in Shanghai: XinTianDi

After exploring nearly every area of the city, it’s clear to me that the XinTianDi neighborhood is the best place to stay in Shanghai as a tourist. Yes, it’s popular with Western tourists but it’s just so lively and vibrant and fun. There are great restaurants and bars and it’s super-convenient to public transportation; the XinTianDi and South Huanpi Road metro stations are right there. It’s also quite beautiful with large trees shading many of the roads and a restored pedestrian-friendly old town area. Yes, pedestrian friendly!! (Most of Shanghai is not pedestrian friendly.) If you’re into Din Tai Fung, the excellent Taiwanese dumpling chain, you’ll also find one in the Shanghai New World mall. You’ll also feel quite safe in XinTianDi, which is important. (Although exercise all the usual cautions and if you are a woman, check out my favorite anti-theft purses.) You really can’t go wrong with XinTianDi if you want to be in the center of it all and within an easy metro ride of anything. Here are my three picks for the best place to stay in Shanghai in XinTianDi according to budget:

My Pick for the Best Place to Stay in Shanghai: Langham Xintiandi

XinTianDi Luxury Hotel: The Langham XinTianDi

This is a 5-star hotel with a price tag to match but if you have the cash, I recommend you spend it here. (And before you rule it out because you think it’s too expensive, check the price! It’s actually pretty decent!) The Langham towers over XinTianDi and offers an indoor pool, luxury spa, and 24-hour fitness center. There are also several restaurants on the property. Consider a Club room for an extra treat so you have access to the complimentary breakfast and happy hour. Rooms have iPhone chargers and a Bluetooth speaker. Service is excellent. Personally, this is my #1 pick for the best place to stay in Shanghai given the hotel’s quality and location.

XinTianDi Mid-Range Hotel: Ascott Huai Hai Road

This is a really nice apartment hotel on the north end of Xintiandi. Each room has a small kitchen and a washer/dryer combo and the rooms are sound-proofed against Shanghai noise. There’s an indoor, heated swimming pool, tennis court and gym as well as an on-site restaurant and bar. This is a great family option as the rooms are quite spacious. It’s also great if you are staying for a longer period of time and don’t want to be eating out all the time. However, there are also tons of restaurants around the hotel which is convenient if you are traveling to Shanghai on business and not planning on cooking dinner.

Photo from the Fraser website

XinTianDi Mid-Range Hotel: Fraser Residence Shanghai

If you like the idea of an apartment-style hotel, the Fraser Residence is another one of the best places to stay in Shanghai. What I like about this hotel is that it offers water filters and air filters in each room. (You can’t drink the tap water in Shanghai and the air pollution is a nightmare at times so both of these things are bonuses!) Most rooms have balconies which is an added bonus. Like the Ascot, this is a great hotel if you are looking for more of a self-catering option.

XinTianDi Budget Hotel: U Hotels XinTianDi

This is a great little apartment-hotel. Some larger units come with washer/dryer combos which you might find handy during your trip. There’s also a nice rooftop deck and a very small gym. The rooms are a bit more basic than Ascott but still nice. There are some complaints about noise between rooms but for the price, this is a great option. And really, you already know that I think XinTianDi is the best place to stay in Shanghai so the location of this hotel really can’t be beat.

See a full list of hotels in the XinTianDi area here. (Booking.com hasn’t done the best job here with giving you a clear list of hotels in xinTianDi so try to pick something between Huangpi South Road metro on the north end and XinTianDi Metro on the south end.) There aren’t a ton of hotels in this area but honestly, it’s worth researching them all because in my opinion, XinTianDi is the best place to stay in Shanghai.

My 2nd Pick for the Best Place to Stay in Shanghai: Jing’an Temple Area

If you like shopping and convenience and SHOPPING, the area immediately surrounding Jing’an Temple is great. I love that there’s this beautiful temple smack dab in the middle of the city. Nearby, I particularly love the Reel Mall and its AMAZING food court downstairs. (Exit 10 from the metro.) You definitely will not go hungry staying around here. There’s also a lovely park surrounding the temple itself if you need some fresh air and exercise. The area is very convenient to the former French Concession as well which is one of my favorite neighborhoods to explore in Shanghai — tons of great restaurants, a nice mix of old and new, and lovely tree-lined streets. So if you want something with a bit more of that mix between commercial and neighborhood-y, Jing’An Temple is my #2 pick for the best place to stay in Shanghai.

Where to Stay in Shanghai: Puli Hotel and Spa Shanghai

Best Place to Stay in Shanghai: Jing’an Luxury Hotel, The Puli Hotel & Spa

Topping many of the lists of where to stay in Shanghai if you want pure luxury, The Puli Hotel & Spa in the middle of one of the world’s most populous cities is just so mind-blowingly serene and chill. There’s 24-hour butler service, a one-star Michelin restaurant, a fab gym with sauna and steam room and then there’s a hot spring pool and heated infinity pool as well as a spa center. Sign me up! If you’ve got the cash, this is certainly a very top contender for the best place to stay in Shanghai. (And if you’ve got even more cash, opt for a Club room.) If it weren’t for my love of XinTianDi and The Langham, this would really be in first place on my “Where to Stay in Shanghai” list.

View of the Swissotel, one of my top picks for where to stay in Shanghai, over Jing’An Temple.

Jing’an Mid-range Hotel: Swissotel Grand Shanghai

The Swissotel is located close to the Jing’an metro station and has a great gym, pool and spa with hammam and sauna.  The hotel has a pillow menu in case you are picky about where you lay your head. Upgrade to the Club floor for access to additional amenities including complimentary breakfast and evening happy hour. If you are trying to decide where to stay in Shanghai, I think this hotel has a great price-to-quality ratio. It is a very solid business class hotel. And of course, it’s also a great location if you like shopping!! (And eating.)

Jing’an Budget Hotel: World Union Serviced Apartment Cosmo

This is an studio apartment offering a 5-minute walk from Jing-an Temple station. Rooms are basic but modern and include a washing machine, which is very handy. Note that this is not a full-service building. That is, you won’t have use of building amenities. But it’s a great choice if you like cooking your own meals and are looking to save some money on a full-service hotel.

The Jing’An neighborhood is a total contender for the best place to stay in Shanghai. See a full list of Jing’an hotels here. Pick one close to Jing’an metro station please!

My Last Pick for the Best Place to Stay in Shanghai: East Nanjing Road (The Bund)

Everyone is going to tell you that the best place to stay in Shanghai is around The Bund and East Nanjing Road. Those people are uninformed tourists who don’t know Shanghai very well and they are wrong. Having stayed at the Westin Bund Center before and having spent a lot of time on The Bund, this is NOT  my favorite part of town. (And I certainly don’t think the Westin is the best place to stay in Shanghai either.) This location is great if you want to go for a run every morning along The Bund and want easy access to an Apple store (there’s a huge one on East Nanjing Road) but I just don’t think East Nanjing Road is as exciting or interesting as XinTianDi or Jing’an Temple. (It’s all a bit…old.) I want to be very very clear about this! I don’t think The Bund and East Nanjing Road is the best place to stay in Shanghai. It’s like the 3rd best place to stay in Shanghai. Still, many tourists like it so maybe you should consider it. (But try to pick a hotel close to the East Nanjing Metro as many of the hotels along The Bund are not close to a metro stop and Shanghai is just so huge that you really need a metro close at hand. As such, I have only listed hotels below that are close to East Nanjing Road Station.)

The Shanghai Edition is a hip option if you’re trying to decide where to stay in Shanghai.

Bund Luxury Hotel: Shanghai EDITION

This hotel is brand new and very sexy and you’ll probably see it in all the latest travel magazines on their “Best Place to Stay in Shanghai” lists. The public areas are great if you love eating and drinking and being with the beautiful people — there are multiple restaurants and bars and they are very popular with the hipsters. The hotel itself has a nice gym, spa and swimming pool and the rooms are very modern with clean lines. You are also located close to some good shopping and a big Apple store. If you have to stay close to The Bund, stay here.

Bund Mid-Priced Hotel: Jinjiang Metropolo Hotel

This popular hotel’s design is a good mix of old and new…it’s a bit art deco, which I like. It’s also very conveniently located to the pedestrian part of East Nanjing Road and the Apple store in case you need anything! This hotel is probably a little short on amenities but is still a great value for the location. It’s very popular with tourists given its price/value ratio. Also, if you are concerned about safety, the police department is right next to the hotel!

Bund Budget Hotel: Shanghai Fish Inn East Nanjing Road

This is a budget hotel with nice rooms in a good location in Shanghai. Very popular with tourists given the price tag here. Unlimited free bottled water provided on request. There are not a lot of amenities and the rooms are on the small side but if you are on a budget, this is a great option and the hotel gets good reviews. The entrance is a little off-putting — down a small alley — but still great fr the price and very convenient to the metro.

See all The Bund hotels here. Pick one close to East Nanjing Road metro station please!!

Where NOT to Stay in Shanghai

Pudong: Unless you are in Shanghai for business on this side of the river, do not stay in Pudong. It’s a snooze fest and you will find yourself taking taxis or the metro everywhere. When I stayed at the Mandarin Oriental Pudong during one of my stays, I had issues on weekend nights getting taxi drivers to take me home because no one wants to go to Pudong at night because there’s no one trying to get back into town. The views of the river were great from the Mandarin Oriental but Pudong was a hassle.

ON the Bund: Per the above, don’t stay in a hotel ON the Bund. (I hope I’ve made this point clear by now!) You’re too far away from a metro station. I read somewhere that the Westin Bund was one of the most popular hotels in Shanghai and I don’t gt it because it is a long ass walk to East Nanjing Road metro from the hotel. (And taxis are hard to get because everyone uses apps now and if you’re not from China, you probably won’t be able to use an app because of payment card issues.)

By the Airport: The airport is far away from downtown. Do not stay by the airport. Even if it’s cheap. Don’t do it. (Note that there are two airports in Shanghai and this advice applies to both.)

Best Place to Stay in Shanghai: Best Overall Luxury Hotels

If you are looking to stay in one of the best hotels in Shanghai — anywhere in Shanghai — here are my overall suggestions. Note I have only listed hotels that are convenient to a metro station and have a Booking.com rating of 8.5 or greater as of November 7, 2018.

• Fairmont Peace Hotel on The Bund
• The Peninsula Shanghai
• The Shanghai Edition
• The Yangtze Boutique Shanghai
• Andaz XinTianDi Shanghai
• The Langham XinTianDi
• Swissôtel Grand Shanghai
• The Puli Hotel And Spa
• Radisson Blu Hotel Shanghai New World

Best Place to Stay in Shanghai: Best Overall Budget Hotels

If you are looking for a great budget hotel in Shanghai and you’re open to multiple locations and neighborhoods, here are a few top picks. To keep this list manageable, I again focused on hotels that were close to metro stations and had a Booking.com rating of 8.5 or higher. Note that I did not include hostels in this at all. I only focused on hotels.

• Campanile Shanghai Bund Hotel
• SSAW Boutique Hotel Shanghai Bund
• Atour Light Shanghai On the Bund
• Anting Villa Hotel

Some Final Tips for Booking Your China Travel

Now that you’ve figured out where to stay in Shanghai, here are some other helpful tips…

1. Get travel insurance. World Nomads is a reliable provider. (The sidewalks in Shanghai alone are worth purchasing travel insurance. They are so uneven!! And building codes do not always seem to be in place. Stairways without railings etc.)
2. Book tours in advance using Viator, City Discovery, or GetYourGuide. Many tours will even pick you up at your hotel.
3. If you are traveling outside of Shanghai, book your train tickets online and have them delivered to your hotel. Queuing up for train tickets in China can be quite stressful. The signs aren’t always in English and the lines can be quite long. Also, the Chinese concept of personal space is very different from the American and British version of personal space so waiting for your tickets can be pretty stressful. Ask your hotel for help if possible.
4. Make sure you have a no foreign transaction fee credit card. Those fees totally add up!
5. Consider opening a bank account with no fees for international withdrawals.  OR withdraw large amounts to reduce the overall cost of withdrawals.
6. Get a VPN. You won’t be able to access anything Google, Facebook, or Instagram without it. I recommend Express VPN for China. It’s the only one that worked reliably for me.  Also, make sure you are always using the latest version of your VPN because it is a cat and mouse game. While I was in China, the desktop version of my VPN stopped working. I didn’t realize that I needed a new version until I contacted Express VPN support and they explained that the Chinese government had blocked the desktop version of the VPN and I needed a new version. I highly highly highly recommend Express VPN for your travels in China. You can subscribe for just a month or two or for an annual subscription. I’ve written more about my experience with VPNs and China over here.
7. Consider getting a local SIM card when you arrive. Easier than relying on wifi. Note that it will take some time to get a local SIM — if there’s no queue, assume it will take you at least 30 minutes as they painstakingly enter all your details. Bring your passport.
8. Bring tissues and wet wipes with you everywhere and be prepared for squat toilets even in Shanghai. (You may want to do some squats before you head to Shanghai to prepare.)
9. Read what I have to say about the best apps for Shanghai!
10. Eat all the dumplings. 😉 I left you some.

Summary of The Best Place to Stay in Shanghai

It’s XinTianDi! Or Jing’An Temple! That’s it!! I hope you found my post on the best place to stay in Shanghai helpful. Remember…stay close to a metro and don’t stay on The Bund!! You might find my post on the best apps for Shanghai helpful, along with my blog post on picking the best VPN for Shanghai. Enjoy your travels and consider booking one of these tours for the full Shanghai experience…

Pin Where to Stay in Shanghai for Later!

The post The Best Place to Stay in Shanghai: The Best Hotels in the Best Neighborhoods first appeared on Passport Delicious | Solo Travel Blog | Solo Female Travel.

All My Advice for Shanghai including The Best Shanghai Apps

My Advice for Shanghai & The Best Shanghai Apps

I just finished up two weeks in Shanghai, my second visit ever, and man am I exhausted. Between the sheer number of people, the sheer size of the metro, and the sheer number of restaurants and bars…you will have no shortage of things to do. I learned some good stuff from new friends as I made my way through two weeks of Chinese classes so here is my top advice for Shanghai along with my recommendations for essential Shanghai apps.

My #1 Piece of Advice for Shanghai: Stay in XinTianDi or Jing’An Temple

I’ve written an entirely separate blog post on where to stay in Shanghai. Don’t stay on The Bund. You are too far from public transport. Take a walk or a run on The Bund, sure. But don’t book a hotel around there. You want to be close to stuff! I recommend XinTianDi or Jing’An Temple for max proximity to fun restaurants, bars, and shops. (If you really really really want to stay close to The Bund, stay closer to any of the entrances to the East Nanjing Road metro station.) This is my top advice for Shanghai.

Sign up for

Express VPN AND NordVPN

To get to Facebook, Twitter, Instagram or anything Google-related in Shanghai, you’ll need a VPN. I have been a long-time fan of NordVPN but am glad I invested in ExpressVPN as well for my trip to China. I find that NordVPN works some of the time but not all of the time. I’m having better luck with ExpressVPN. If you are an internet addict, just be prepared for some frustrations in China and make sure you subscribe to a VPN BEFORE your trip, pay for it, and log in on all your devices before you leave the US or elsewhere. Downloading a VPN within China is nearly impossible. They are nearly all blocked. There is always a workaround but you will have to figure out how to contact support for backdoor access. Skip this headache by making sure you are all set before you arrive in China. Also, take screenshots on how to contact support just in case China totally blocks access to everything. Because it’s a constant cat and mouse game with VPNs and the Great Firewall, personally, I recommend having two VPNs. These are essential Shanghai apps!

Get the Taxi App Didi

The number one taxi app in Shanghai is Didi. Download this app before you go so you can easily order taxis whenever you need them. However, note that it can be extremely difficult to get taxis during rush hour. So you may want to consider the Metro instead. Please make sure you set up Didi before you get to Shanghai as you may need to try a number of credit cards before you find one that works. (This Medium article on Didi in China is very helpful.)

Get a Chinese-English Dictionary: Pleco

Pieco is a GREAT English Chinese dictionary app. Of course, you should download Google Translate as well but I find that Pieco is better at definitions and options for saying the same thing in different ways. And you don’t need to worry about the Great Firewall.

Download Explore Metro

One of the most essential Shanghai apps is Explore metro, a great metro map of Shanghai. If you put in your destination, it will plot out the fastest way for you to get there too.

Make Sure You Get WeChat

Most businesses will let you communicate with them via WeChat. Also useful for chatting with any friends (old or new!)  in China. Set this app up before you go so you can add your profile pic and store your friends’ details.

Hungry? Try Sherpa 

If you need a food delivery app in Shanghai, Sherpa is the Chinese version of JustEat or GrubHub although it’s only available in a few cities right now. (Shanghai, Beijing, Suzhou and Hangzhou as of this writing.) They also deliver wine and beer! This app is in English.

Need a Restaurant? Download Bon App

This is a great English-language restaurant guide and one of the most essential Shanghai apps if you need food delivered.

Taking Trains? Download Trip

Trip is a great app for your travel needs in China. So for example, if you need to check the train times for the fast trains from Beijing to Shanghai, Trip has all the info you need. This is definitely one of the best Shanghai apps if you plan on traveling around the country a lot. You can purchase tickets online and international credit cards are accepted but see my next point about getting your train tickets delivered to your hotel so you don’t have to queue at the station.

Book Train Tickets in Advance and Have Them Delivered to Your Hotel

Trying to pick up your train tickets in person at the station can take forever and can also be a stressful experience if the station is crowded and there are long queues. Also, Chinese trains often sell out in advance. So one of my best pieces of advice for Shanghai is to book your train tickets in advance and pay extra to have them delivered to your hotel. The Man in Seat 61 recommended China Highlights so I used them and had a positive experience. My tickets were with me within 48 hours. They also included helpful instructions for how to use the trains.

Forget Google. In China, You Need Bing

If you don’t have a VPN, be ready to do all your internet searches with Microsoft Bing! I can’t believe I’m actually writing this sentence. Because you’ve probably never used Bing as a search engine on a mobile device before, make sure you set it up before you go.

Learn Chinese with Hello Chinese

If you want to learn some basic Chinese, I tried a few different language apps and out of Duolingo, Memrise, and Hello Chinese, I liked Hello Chinese the best. It’s easy to use and fun too. I actually bough a year’s subscription, I’m having so much fun! Learning how to count to 10 in Chinese has been extremely helpful, as has learning how to say things like “beef,” “pork,” and “chicken.”

Google Maps is Dead. Long Live Apple Maps!

Because Google is blocked in China, you will find that Google Maps can be out of date or just plain wrong. I was burned more than a few times when I tried relying on Google Maps. Don’t rely on Shanghai restaurant addresses on Google Maps! Apple Maps is more accurate. I can’t believe people use Apple Maps but….you really need to in Shanghai and elsewhere in China. This is one of my top pieces of advice for Shanghai.

Prepare to Walk a Lot

Just some more general advice for Shanghai: I am very easily doing 12,000 steps a day. Even changing lines on the metro can entail walking thousands of steps. There are plenty of escalators and elevators between lines but changing lines can be intense.

Get a Fitbit

On the above note…Because I totally geeked out on how far I walked and how many flights of stairs I climbed in Shanghai, I highly recommend purchasing a Fitbit and setting up the app on your phone before your trip so you can track your activity!

Arrange Your Schedule to Avoid Rush Hour

My biggest piece of advice for Shanghai? Seriously, 8 am to 9 am and 5:30 pm to 7 pm on the Metro is insane. It can be hard to avoid these times as a tourist so just be ready to squish into the train cars and be a little (lot?) more aggressive than you would be in the US and certainly in the UK. You may want to pay a little more for a centrally located hotel to help avoid the crush. There was one day where I totally couldn’t get to the other side of town for my food tour because the metro was so crowded during the morning rush and I just wasn’t aggressive enough.

Prepare for Social Media Detox

I love Instagram Stories. But Instagram is blocked in China so you have to use a VPN which slows down your already slow internet connection. I can barely watch Instagram Stories. My connectivity just isn’t fast enough. (China internet speeds seem to be capped at about 15 Mbps. A far cry from the 60 Mbps I had in Thailand and the 200 Mbps I had in London.) So just be ready for a little detox.

Get a Local SIM Card

Maybe your home cell provider has a great deal on China but you might find that you get faster internet if you bring a local phone and get a local SIM Card. I paid about $30 USD for 20 GB of data and 300 minutes with China Unicom for a month. (If you know you will be traveling outside of Shanghai, ask for a nationwide plan. Essential!) To get my SIM, I went to Exit 7 of Changshou Road. When you come out the exit, make a left onto Changshou Road. There on the left, there’s a mall called Yaxin Life Square.  In the entrance of the mall, right there in the foyer, there is a mobile phone counter. The logo looks like it says Wow but my hotel sent me there and said they sold China Unicom SIM cards. Getting the SIM card probably took about 20 minutes because they had to register my details. Bring your passport. You don’t have to go here of course but this is just one place I know where you can get a SIM card and it may not be that busy.

Take Taxis! They are Cheap!

On the day that I realized that rush hour in Shanghai was no joke, I had to take a taxi to the other side of town. The ride probably took 45 minutes. It cost 50 yuan, which is about $7.25. You just need to be able to hail a taxi, which seems next to impossible during rush hour. My hotel helped me get a taxi so this worked out.

Carry Tissues and Hand Sanitizer

A lot of public restrooms will not have toilet paper. And you will be on and off the metro so frequently that hand sanitizer is a very good idea.

Don’t Drink the Tap Water

Tap water in Shanghai is not drinkable. Drink bottled water instead. Or buy a Lifestraw water bottle which will filter tap water for you!

Summary of my Advice for Shanghai and My Favorite Shanghai Apps

I hope you’ve found this post with my advice for Shanghai and my favorite Shanghai apps helpful — I learned a lot during my time in Shanghai and can’t wait to go back. Have you been to Shanghai? What’s your advice for Shanghai and what were your favorite Shanghai apps?

You Might Also Enjoy

• Where to Stay in Shanghai
• The Best VPN for Shanghai & China
• Cost of My Four Weeks in China
• Goodbye, Shanghai. Plus, What I Learned on My Vacation

Need More Advice for Shanghai? Take a Tour!

The post My Advice for Shanghai including Shanghai Apps first appeared on Passport Delicious | Solo Travel Blog | Solo Female Travel.

I’ve been to Hong Kong twice in my life, once with my parents in 1998 — Asian currency crisis time so everything was bargainous — and then again in 2000, at the tail end of my two week bike trip through China. There’s something about Hong Kong that makes me feel at home. I felt the same in 1998 and 2000 and I felt it again in 2016, 16 years after my last visit.

In 1998, I had my palm read at the Temple Street Night Market. “You will live outside the United States for many years,” the fortune teller told me. How much has been self-actualization since then? I don’t know. He also told me, “When given the chance to move, move. Moving is good for you.”

Moving IS good for me. Me and London get along very, very well, but maybe I should move to  Hong Kong! (Apparently the expat tax situation is wonderous.)

Hong Kong was my first stop of my Asian sojourn because the flight was cheap — a Finnair business class bargain — and well, because of the crazy pull on the heartstrings. Also, my friend Eugene is there and it was time for a catch-up.

Besides coming down with an awful cold on the flight over, getting my credit card number swiped at one of my hotels, and living through the coldest day in  Hong Kong in 60 years without a coat (34 degrees F, 2 degrees C), here’s what I got up to…

Hong Kong Foodie Tasting Tours, Sham Shui Po: I didn’t do much my first night in town — um, OK I paid $70 USD for a gel manicure at a place by my hotel — but I was up bright and early my first morning to join my guide Fiona for a food tour of Sham Shui Po, an older part of Hong Kong that I absolutely loved. I honestly can’t say enough great things about this tour. Fiona was lively, personable and funny and all the stops revealed a new little bit of old Hong Kong. We started off with a huge pineapple bun and milk tea, and then I ate all the rice rolls somewhere and all the roast duck and roast goose somewhere else. I would do this again and I would also try their other tours as well. Visit their website.

Good Evening Kowloon, Walk in Hong Kong: This tour took me to a bunch of cool places that I probably wouldn’t have gone to on my own. The craziest bit is when we walked into a singing parlour off of Temple Street and watched the old folks sing their favorite tunes. We also visited a parking garage for a great view of Temple Street Night Market. (Pictured at top of post.) We stopped at a pretty average place for dinner though, and our guide was not helpful in ordering. (I would rather a guide tell me what’s good than hand me a huge menu of unfamiliar dishes and ask me to choose.) This outfit has great reviews, so I think I just got a bum guide. (She was nice. Just nothing in comparison to the lively Fiona from the previous day.) Visit their website.

PMQ: A design-destination with lots of small little boutiques and interesting things to look at. Maybe it was the weather — freezing cold, raining — but there was no one there when I visited, which felt a little odd. I had about 13 people stop me and ask me to take a survey about why I chose to visit PMQ, which got a little annoying after about the fifth time. I really wasn’t in a shopping mood, but if you’re a shopper, you should go here. Visit their website.

This is the view from the ladies’ loo at Cafe Gray Deluxe…

Cafe Gray Deluxe, Upper House: I stopped in for lunch and drinks on my last day in Hong Kong, when the sun had finally decided to shine and the skies were a perfect crystal blue. It’s not cheap and I thought it a little odd that they sat me next to the only other full table in the place, but I enjoyed the views and my soup and I also really liked the loos. Go if you like expensive things and eavesdropping on private equity professionals. Visit their website.

Chungking Mansions: This building was fascinating! I wish there was a tour just about this space. To quote from Wikipedia, “Chungking Mansions features guesthouses, curry restaurants, African bistros, clothing shops, sari stores, and foreign exchange offices. It often acts as a large gathering place for some of the ethnic minorities in Hong Kong, particularly South Asians (Indians, Nepalese, Pakistanis, Bangladeshis and Sri Lankans), Middle Eastern people, Nigerians, Europeans, Americans, and many other peoples of the world. I wish I had taken more photos here. If you like slice-of-life stuff, this place is for you! Read more about Chungking Mansions.

Aberdeen Street Social: I know, I know. Don’t kill me. I went all the way to Hong Kong and went to a Jason Atherton restaurant. BUT…I was freezing cold and it was raining and I needed a rest. (Aberdeen Street Social is at PMQ.) So I dropped in here and had a glass of wine and  caught up on social media. It was nice, cozy and warm. I did not have anything to eat here.  Visit their website.

Din Tai Fung, Miramar Shopping Plaza: I ate all the XLB at Din Tai Fung, plus all the sesame noodles. There is nothing left now. Sorry about that. Maybe one day, they will open in London. One day… Visit their website.

Lung Kee Wanton, Tsim Sha Tsui: I dropped in here for breakfast one morning and boy was I glad. A huge bowl of noodles, pork wontons and fishballs. For cheap! Delicious. They didn’t speak much English but sign language and pointing worked perfectly well. Cheap and cheerful. Visit Open Rice.

As always, I only scratched the surface during my short visit to Hong Kong. My cold and the absolutely freezing cold weather that I was not prepared for also put a bit of a damper on things. No problem though because I am pretty sure I will not let another 16 years go by before visiting again…

Book a Hong Kong Tour

The post Revisiting Hong Kong after 16 Years… first appeared on Passport Delicious | Solo Travel Blog | Solo Female Travel.

I’m a little torn about my stay here. On the one hand, I loved the staff and the facilities. The staff were cheerful, knowledgeable and helpful at all times, day and night. The facilities offered everything the modern business traveler could want: there were multiple restaurants, a dark and smoky bar, a nice food/wine shop, and a great gym and pool. Also, the hotel VPN got me around the Great Firewall of China, and I was able to access Facebook from my hotel room.  And room service was relatively inexpensive. My breakfasts were about $10 USD, where the equivalent in the U.S. would be more like $34 USD. I should also note that the hotel’s location was great. Just a few blocks to The Bund (the riverfront) and a few blocks to East Nanjing Road, where all the shopping is.

But the room…the room left me wanting. The closet area was super dark and the shower boasted a light dusting of mold. Also, it cost $6.50 to launder each pair of my underwear. Many people would really be happy here, but it all felt a little…worn. Nice, but worn. Definitely in need of an upgrade.

Would I stay here again? If I had the points to do it, sure. But otherwise…maybe not. I’d look for something a little newer and nicer. So should you!

The post Staying on Points at The Westin Bund, Shanghai first appeared on Passport Delicious | Solo Travel Blog | Solo Female Travel.

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The very dark bar where I attempted logistics and operations

The desk in my hotel room, where logistics and operations are easier, but there are no free peanuts

WHY IS HOTEL LAUNDRY SO EXPENSIVE?

My 2008 Chinese Chardonnay

When I travel, I believe in logistics and operations days. These are days where I really don’t do much but travel and check e-mail. Some people might say — like they said to me so often  in Vietnam — “Oh, you so lazy.” But seriously, I am not lazy. I AM BEAT. Traveling is hard. You need downtime. You need to get organized. You need to do laundry. I try to explain this to some people and they just roll their eyes and tell me that surely, I can do better than whatever it is that I am doing. But these people maybe haven’t lived out of a carry-on for two weeks and they probably weren’t up at 5:45 am this morning, either!

When I’m busy, I’m very very busy. When I’m not, I’m NOT.

So let me tell you about my today so far and then you tell me…

5:45 am: Alarm clock rings at Sofitel Metropole in Hanoi. Hop in shower.

6 am: Get dressed, dry hair, etc etc.

6:20 am: Order room service service breakfast, which was included in my room rate. Technically, I should have done this when I hopped into the shower, but my brain wasn’t really functioning at 5:45 am. Sue me.

6:40 am: Room service arrives. Stir-fried noodles with seafood. Have I mentioned how much I LOVE VIETNAM. Seriously…this place is awesome.

6:50 am: Finish breakfast and leave room to check out of hotel, get money from bank machine next to hotel, and pick up a bottle of water from the Club Lounge. (I like to splurge on club floors. A vice of mine. But it saves on breakfast and snacks and etc. so for me, it’s worth it. Especially when traveling alone.) By the time I get back to my room, it’s 7:15 am.

7:20 am: Grab taxi to airport. I have a feeling I will get ripped off. Note to everyone: don’t ever rely on people who never travel to tell you how long it will take to get to the airport. It takes exactly an hour, but they made it seem like it would take 30 minutes. This stresses me out. Also, taxi driver communicates via giggles. Keep reading.

8:20 am: Arrive at airport. Get ripped off by taxi driver, who claims he can’t make change and has seemingly no understanding of my suggestion he get change, and my attempt to get him change. (I swear, all the drivers are in on this “we have no change” thing together.) I make him promise me that he will use the extra money to educate his daughter. More giggles. I get into HUGE CHECK-IN QUEUE. The hugest of hugest check-in queues. Check in around 9:15 am. By the time I’ve gone through immigration and security, it’s 9:35 am.

10:20 am: Flight boards. I’ve been doing laps around the airport for ages. On the plane, I watch an old No Reservations episode about Shanghai and then I start “The Heat” with Sandra Bullock and Melissa McCarthy. It’s funny…sometimes.

2:15 pm: Plane lands in Shanghai.

2:15 pm to 2:55 pm: Wander around Shanghai airport, trying to change Vietnamese Dong into Chinese Yuan. NO LUCK. No one wants my Vietnamese money!!! Jesus, Mary and Joseph. I am worried this is going to be like all the Tunisian Dinars I’ve had at the bottom of my drawer since like 2008. If you’re ever going to Tunisia, let me know. And do go, their white wine is lovely.

2:55 pm: Get into taxi at Pudong Airport and head into downtown. I feel confident that I will not be ripped off.  Taxi driver speaks English! BONUS.

4 pm: Arrive at hotel. Taxi driver does not rip me off. Check in and go upstairs. Room key doesn’t work. Go back downstairs. Rather than getting new room keys, they give me a new room. (???) Go to new room. Unpack the important stuff, put the other important stuff in the safe, and get laundry bag ready. (Seriously, $6.50 USD to wash my drawers. I should have done more laundry in Vietnam, where they were only $2.50 a pair.) Set up all my devices for charging.

4:45 pm: Check out hotel public areas. There’s a nice food and wine shop, which is a surprise. I also pick up the spa menu and talk to the concierge. He walks me through the map and I pick up tons of brochures. He also tells me where to get a FOOT MASSAGE. I want to live in China just so I can get foot massages forever.

5:15 pm: Install myself at hotel bar with laptop for official “logistics and operations” time. I confirm my tour for tomorrow morning, (Thank you again, Viator!) I book another tour for Tuesday, and I write down all the details of where I need to be when for tomorrow and Sunday. I also make dinner plans with a friend from business school who lives here and then I try to gchat with a London friend but the connection in the bar is wonky, which is drastically cutting into logisitcs and operations time.

6:15 pm: Give up on wifi in bar. Attempt to take a walk around the block to get some air. Walk outside in my summer dress, bare legs and sandals. HOLY SHIT IT’S COLD. Go back to my room. There’s a message waiting for me from my tour guide about tomorrow. Also, I need a corkscrew to drink the 2008 Chinese Chardonnay I’ve picked up from the gift shop on my way back to the room.

6:25 pm: I’ve ended up purchasing an in-room broadband connection because the wifi is so wonky. I finally get back online, Also, corkscrew arrives. The Chinese Chardonnay is OPEN.

So see…it’s 6:30 pm until I’m really settled in a place and I’ve been up for 12+ hours already. I know there’s a lot to see and do in Shanghai, but I’m beat. Room service and Internet it is. Sorry darlings.

7:15 pm: Publish blog post. 😉

The post Traveling: Day of “Logistics & Operations” first appeared on Passport Delicious | Solo Travel Blog | Solo Female Travel.